Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5712/1R and 5712/1G (2024)

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Here's all you need to know about Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5712/1R and 5712/1G

Boasting a 40mm case, the ref. 5712R and ref.5712Gmaintainthe Nautilus’ iconic silhouettethrough the careful preservation ofits signature elements and the proportional balance between them.Pivotal to this is the Nautilus’ rounded octagonal bezel, which is placed atop its porthole-inspired case’s hinges, providing the Nautilus with its sense of total symmetry. Completing this balance of symmetry is the Nautilus’ rounded polished center links that act as lugs through which the leather strap offered on both variants can be attached. Recently discontinued in their leather-strapped forms, the ref. 5712R and ref. 5172G both bid farewell to the Nautilus collection after remaining part of Patek’s catalogue since 2006, however, it is worth noting that the ref. 5712R did remain relatively unscathed thanks to the introduction of a braceleted version that was added to the collection in 2022 that still remains.

Beyond its construction, the ref.5712’s dial, available only in brown for the rose goldvariants,or grey for the whitegoldvery notably contrasts the Nautilus’ refined sense of symmetry through the seemingly random placement of its complications.Made up of a power reserve indicator at 10 o’clock, a running seconds subdial at 4 o’clock and a combined pointer date subdial at 7 o’clock with a moonphase window at its centre, the ref. 5712’s display flies in the face of how one would expect it to be laid out when compared to the Nautilus’ construction, or through comparison to other Nautilus references. However, with its unique layout aside, the ref.5712doesstillmanagetocombine a practical selection of complications that provide the ref. 5712withausefularray of functions for its owner to enjoy and rely upon,which is keepingwith the Nautilus’ spirit as a sports watch.

Transcending its design, material construction and artisanal execution, the Nautilus has become a cultural icon within watchmaking and the wider pop-culture conscience. Not just a timepiece, the Nautilus represents a milestone in design, craftsmanship and exclusivity,often regarded as a must-have for serious collectors, with the precious metal versions like the ref.5712R and ref. 5712G embodying that fact in their totality through their luxurious constructions.

This combination has driven demand into the entire Nautilus collection, with the entire 5712referenceexperiencing a level of demandthat isrivalled by only a handful of other watches. As a result, the ref. 5712 has been spotted on the wrists of celebrities, business moguls, and watch enthusiasts alike, further cementing its status as a symbol of success and refined taste, and cementing its market value far in excess of its retail price. While it may have replaced a reference that had only been in production for one year, the ref.5712 has forged itsownhistory and carved out a well-deserved position amongst theplethora of iconic Nautilus models thatit stands next to.

Along with its fellow Nautilus references like the ref. 5711 and ref. 5990 and more, the ref. 5712’s market performance has dominated discourse surrounding this modern-day classic. While the ref. 5712 wasn’t an immediate hit in 2006, itquickly gained traction alongside its Nautilus siblings and enjoyed an incredible rise in stardom in the late 2010s on the back of its high demand and theextremely limitedavailability of allocations from Patek Philippe to the primary market.

While the figures have fluctuated over the last few years, the price premium over the leather-strapped ref. 5712R’s retail price of $53735 (before discontinuation) was 127%, while the leather-strapped white gold ref. 5712G’s price premium over its retail price of $56588 (before discontinuation) was 71%.Thisis reflected in their market values of $122000 and $97000 (before discontinuation), respectively. So not only did the rose gold ref.5712R cost less to get directly fromPatek than the ref. 5712G, itsmarket value is also significantly higher.

This strong market performance is also reflected in the leather-strapped ref. 5712R’s 18k rose gold braceleted sibling, which was launched in 2022. Its price premium sits at an impressive 168% over its retail price of $76200, representing a market value of $203000. However, it is worth noting that this variant has been produced for much less time than the leather ref.5712R,andso its supply on the market is far more restricted, andsocollectors are quicker to join the waiting list for it, thus further driving its demand on the secondary market as its market value increases.

Check out the live performance of Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5712/1R at The Wristcheck Index